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Potential Injury Or Death - Risk Discloser

The highest potential risk for this product is death by fire. Because like any appliance it gets warm when it is being used and excessive heat can cause a fire.  It is not UL listed yet.  The second potential risk is death by electrocution if you try to swim with it in your pool while plugged in.  The third potential risk is death by strangulation by any of the wiring or cords.  A fourth potential risk of death is by crushing if the kit were to somehow fall on you.  A fifth risk from potential death is by thousand cuts by smashed glass or other possible sharp or pointy places on the kit.  A sixth risk of potential death is from attempting to eat any of the kit or its packaging.

Your utility may not like that you have connected to "their" grid.   If you have any question about any requirements your utility may demand, please contact your local utility provider BEFORE making your purchase.  We make no claim utilities are required to allow you to use this equipment on "their" grid.

This kit is not yet eligible for any rebates or tax credits so don't even bother to apply.  If your utility discovers via your application they may send their private "electricity police" to come sniff around your property to see what is going on with you generating your own electricity without "their permission".

You purchase and use this kit at your own risk.  The big, evil, corporate electric companies usually don't welcome pioneering micro scale solar systems.  If they become popular, it will put them out of business so they feel threatened. They tend to try to make it as difficult as possible for you to connect to "their grid" located inside your home.  The best solution is to just do it responsibly and quietly. Make your final connection out of sight from preying eyes.  Ideally the cord from the  converter will lead to a electric receptacle which is indoors, out of sight. That way if the "utility police"  ever questions what you are doing you have plausible deniability that you are charging batteries that are just out of sight. The most likely worst case outcome would be for the power utility to threaten service disconnection unless you comply with disconnecting your solar setup from "their grid" on "your side" of the meter. These are the very same wires they claim to be "your responsibility" when repairs are required.

But to comply, all you have to do is simply kick the plug out of the wall.  Then just plug it back in when the "utility police"  have gone.  (LOL)


Utilities generally want to see the energy generated from a solar system entering the meter breaker box on its own circuit breaker, with nothing else on the circuit. The reason is for safety. When the solar is on its own circuit, if the solar system somehow managed to produce more than the wiring could handle, the circuit breaker on the utility box would open and the wiring would be protected from overload.  

This plug and play micro solar system is super convenient and is unlikely to cause any overloading when used as instructed.   Here is a simple example of how this system could become a fire hazard:

Suppose you have a circuit breaker in the meter box and it is rated at 15 amps. And on that circuit you have plugged in a refrigerator, TV and a toaster. You notice that when the refrigerator TV and toaster are all running at the same time, everything works fine, but when you open the refrigerator door, the circuit breaker opens and the power goes out on that circuit. The reason is that with all 3 appliances active at the same time the power passing through the protective breaker was operating at its limit of 15 amps. When the door to the refrigerator was opened, the light inside came on and added enough load to cause the current to exceed 15 amps and the circuit breaker opened the before the house wiring could become hot from overloading.

Now plug your new solar system into the same circuit and you will have a big problem!!!
The bigger the solar system, the bigger the problem.  This is a case where smaller is better.

Now, when this solar system is producing power, it will pump up to 2 amps of new power into that circuit. That is 2 new amps of power which IS NOT FLOWING THROUGH THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IN THE UTILITY BOX.  It is being consumed by the appliances sharing the circuit. The circuit breaker has been tricked to believe it can supply an additional 2 amps of utility power because 2 less amps are flowing through the circuit breaker.  With the solar connected in the example above you will now be able to run all three appliances and when you open the door and the light comes on the circuit breaker will not open and the power will stay on.  Yay!?  No BAD!!!  You have exceeded the rating of the wiring on the circuit you plugged the solar into and have created a fire hazard.  

Even worse you now find that you can also plug in a radio and a crock pot before the breaker pops.  You have been tricked into thinking the solar has helped ease the burden of the breaker and it has.... by overloading your internal wiring turning them into heating elements everywhere they go! Very bad.  This is pretty much a worst case scenario of how this micro system could cause a problem.  Now that you understand the risk, you assume the responsibility.  The best way to safely use this system is to plug it into a circuit all by itself or with very few "low current" things also sharing the same circuit.  

As a general rule, always try to choose the receptacle which is at the end of the circuit or as close to the end as you can. Generally this is the 
receptacle
that is the farthest away from the utility meter and breakers.  This way, all of the appliances between the solar system connection and utility breakers have a  opportunity to consume the electricity produced by the solar system before the energy can make it all the way to the breaker and meter, the safer the whole system is because of the optimized balance of current obtained by selecting the last receptacle at the end of the circuit to connect the solar system.

Executive Summary:  When connecting the solar kit to an electrical outlet the lowest risk from accidental overloading of the internal wiring of the structure is obtained when the solar system is connected to the very last electrical 
receptacle at the end of a circuit, usually physically located the furthest distance away from the electric meter & breakers.  The safest way to connect this system is to connect it to a circuit with nothing else on it.  In all cases, if the circuit breaker the solar is plugged into opens only after the sun goes down, you have a problem.  Move the solar to another circuit.  (A rarity)


In my case I was able to run a short extension cord from the solar array to the sub panel of my pool filter pump.  The pump has an existing 120VAC utility receptacle with a metal waterproof hinged cover.  The power runs from the solar converter to the pool receptacle, through a circuit breaker on the pool pump sub panel, down through underground conduit back to the main breaker box at the meter. So even if the system was able to overload the circuit, all the wires are at least 18" underground, not much of a fire hazard.  Anyway with all pool equip turned on including the pool lights during the day and the solar system generating power, I did not exceed wiring ratings under any condition. A micro system generating only 3 amps max, it's pretty easy to do.

With the panels in direct sunlight it generates enough power to 
completely run my swimming pool pump (Hayward variable speed) and one refrigerator.   I like saving money every day the sun comes up.  My pool pump is set to only run during daylight hours when the solar is producing. This micro solar system provides 100 % of my pool electrical energy costs and then some. These are big consumers of electricity because they run every single day for many hours.  And the PNG350 Micro Solar Kit provides for that daily demand, and then some.  Cleanly, quietly, and during the peak hours of the day when power is in greatest demand and typically costs the most.

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